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Saturday, October 6, 2007

سوق واقف جميل الان

So, when I visited Doha two years ago with my study-abroad group, the first thing that we did was visit Souq Waqif. At the time, it was basically one main street with shops only on one side, and a couple tiny twisting covered areas boasting about 20-30 shops selling candies, spices, and homewares. After spending weeks exploring the fabulous Mutrah souq in Oman, Waqif was drab, empty and disappointing. The only worthwile part was the falconry section, highlighted by rows of gorgeous birds on display on posts.

Needless to say, I was not exactly chomping at the bit to return to Waqif once I had moved to Doha. But last night, several of my friends decided that they needed to go abaya shoping, and Waqif certainly is the best place to buy the long black dresses at a reasonable price. I tagged along as an opportunity to get out of my apartment and be with the people I enjoy spending time with. It turned out to be a great decision.

Driving up to Waqif, everything seemed the same. But as I entered what is now referred to as the "New Old Souq" I realized that 19 months had seen as much change in the souq as had changed the rest of Doha. Waqif is now completely renovated so that there are about 3-4 times as many shops ranging from nice restaurants, traditional craft shops, fabric stores, and all of the original ones. On top of that, the expanded souq has been completely redecorated so as to look like an authentic old Arab souq. We began the night strolling down the street that had held only one side of shops before. Now it is teeming with activity on both sides with street coffee shops and the pulsating beat of Gulf music.

It had been recommended to us that we eat dinner at Tajine, a Moroccan restaurant on the main drag of the souq. While they sadly were out of the baby camel that I ordered, I was thrilled by the lamb stew that I ended up with. The strong Moroccan spices and sweet cinnamon sugar glaze on the onions and tomatoes scintillated and the moist, fall straight off the bone, meat was succulent. Most of the rest of the group was thrilled by their "Couscous with Seven Vegetables" and even the drab looking kofta with french fries were delicious. A suggestion to any planning on trying Tagine out, the appetizers are delicious, but the Lbranya (a blend of eggplant and moroccan spices) is to die for.

Fully sated by our dinner, we wandered the souq. The girls all found abayas to purchase, and I was greatly amused by the rock lobster I found. Cute, isn't it? And for a coll 6,000 Qatari Riyal, it too can be yours! Enchanted by the surroundings, we ended up simply wandering the souq for a couple hours. Finally, weighted down with sweet halwa, new stone prayer beads, and reams of fabric, we headed back home.

Souq Waqif is still not the same cultural experience as Mutrah Souq, but it is now a lot of fun and a great place to relax and walk around. I strongly recommend for anyone visiting Doha, or for any of you who live here and need to relax a bit, take a couple hours at the Souq. You won't regret it.

Want to know more? Check out the souq at: http://www.soukwaqif.com

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Gawd...you so sound like a tourist!! :-P

Jocelyn and Tony said...

We just arrived in Doha a few weeks ago (I am at WCMC-Q), and appreciate your blog on the souk. Thanks for sharing!

Tony

http://marhaban-qatar.blogspot.com/

srah said...

The baby camel makes me a little sad. I don't know why, because lamb doesn't make me sad (lamb is delicious!) and sheep are a lot cuter than camels. I suppose I should just eat some baby camel and get over it!

... Now where can one find baby camel in southwestern Ohio?